How to build a concrete koi pond

how to build a concrete koi pond

Rendering the sides of the fish pond can seem a little tricky to start with but after a little practice it is a very straightforward job, apply the mortar so that the sides of the fish pond are nice and smooth, round the corners of the fish pond to aid the water flow and the mortar is allowed to dry before any further work is carried out on the project. May 09, †Ј Pouring the Concrete 1. Line the pond with heavy-gauge polythene sheet. Use a plastic liner that is mm ( in) to mm ( in) 2. Mix concrete in an electric mixer following the concrete packageТs instructions. Turn on your electric mixer and pour 3. 87%(44).

There are many ways to build a koi pond. A koi pond can be constructed with a wide variety of hkw - they can be built in the ground, on the ground, or a combination of both. No two koi ponds look alike - but they all share common fundamentals. So, what are the fundamentals you ask? This is an example of a koi pond we built that is partially underground and partially above ground.

When a koi pond is partially above ground it reduces your excavation depth, but also provides for a place for sitting. Sitting on the edge of your koi pond lets you more easily get up close and personal with your koi than a koi pond completely in the ground. The outer facing ppond the pond was then detailed with decorative Cultured Stone, the flower bed around the pond skimmer and bottom conrcete pre-filter is created with retaining wall blocks. The koi pond equipment list:.

What is the book walk two moons about a Koi Pond is easy Ч simply follow these procedures outlined in the following series of photos. Start out by creating a rough drawing of the pond and where you want the filtration system to be located.

The 3-way flow control valve is located inside a round valve box between the skimmer and pre-filter. The Uv system and aeration system are located inside a rectangular valve box adjacent to the skimmer and pre-filter.

Use your actual dimensions so you can clearly see what you're going to build prior digging. Make sure to always call your local Utilities to locate underground pipes and wiring before you dig!!!

Digging with a small excavator from your local rental place makes for a much easier time. They're fun and easy to operate too! A small excavator easily digs the hole for the pond, and loads wheelbarrows for easy soil re-locating. In this case, much of the excavated soil will be re-used to hide the pond skimmer, pre-filter, control valve, aeration, and UV system from view Excavated soil is also used to create a raised flower bed at one end of the pond.

Then, fine tune the excavation by hand with shovels. The excavation should be at least 1 foot longer in every direction to allow construction of the retaining walls.

Many different types of materials can be used to retain earth Ч from treated wood, to concrete, to concrete blocks. Construction of this koi pond was during business hours at our former location in Redmond, WA Ч thus the use of traffic cones to warn customers of the construction area.

We didn't want anyone falling in the hole we just dug! This photo shows why the excavation is one foot larger hlw all directions than the finished pond.

It gives you room to work down in the excavation. Once all the retaining wall work is completed, you can backfill the extra excavation space with soil previously removed. Place a layer of soil over the concrete in the post holes to prevent any sharp or abrasive edges from causing harm to the pond liner.

Especially since have of them will be under ground! Each side and end will be 10 boards high. Again, you can use many things to retain the earth, this example shows how using pressure treated lumber is quick, simple, and cost effective. A swimming pool box for your koi! The limitation of using treated lumber is that curved walls are not possible. For curved wall designs you can use concrete blocks as we do in our Oki koi pondpolyurea, concrete Ч or gunite can be used.

Then, using a hole saw, drill a hole through what is a mlm opportunity wood. Water exits this koi pond in two places Ч the bottom drain at the center of the bottom of the pond, and the pond skimmer in the upper corner of the pond.

Water returns to this koi pond in two places - at opposite ends, opposite corners, and in opposite directions. Each return is parallel with the side closest to the return. This causes the water to circulate in a circular motion. A circular water motion aids in the efficiencies of both the bottom drain and the pond skimmer. To create a circular water movement flow Ч install the main water return in the opposite corner of the same end of the pond as the pond skimmer near the middle depth of the pond.

Install the UV return line in on the opposite end of the same side as the pond skimmer. Next, using the concretee saw again, drill a hole in the wood for your UV water return.

It should be in the opposite end and opposite corner from the main water return. Here's a useful tip: Place a plastic bag over the opening of your bottom drain. This way, when you backfill around the drain with soil - soil won't get down inside the drain!

Locate the center of the bottom of the koi pond. Measure end to end and side to side to find the center. Then trench wide enough and deep enough for the 4" drain pipe. Dig under the retaining wall boards so you can bring the pipe up to the HydroSieve-PF pre-filter. At this time, lay the aeration tubing along side the 4" bottom drain pipe. Leave a aeration tube stub above ground at least 18" long.

Make sure to compact the soil around the bottom drain as well as aa and on top of the drain pipe. There is going to be thousands of pounds of water pushing down on the soil - so make sure you have it completely compacted.

If you don't you'll have settling areas later on the will what is aramaic language in the bible a costly repair. Do you see why we recommend a plastic bag over the bottom drain at this stage of building a koi pond? You will be installing styrofoam, underlayment, and pond liner inside the pond and the remote installation pipe needs to extend far enough into the pond to accommodate the 1" liner gasket collar.

The skimmer inlet pipe is 6" so we're going to use a " reducer coupler. We're using the Pipe skimmer because it has room for multiple pumps, an auto fill valve, and an overflow port. Next, slide the the remote installation pipe into the reducer coupler. Next, tighten the single stainless steel nut at each end to lock it all in place.

Now is the time to level the pond skimmer. Make sure it what are headaches in the back of your head level side to side and front to back to ensure proper function of all it's inlet and outlet ports. Lay the pipe inside the open work area between the excavation edge and the pond box. Compact the soil as you backfill to help reduce future settling. Since this pond is partially above ground, the styrofoam helps stabilize the water temperature, but also reduces the shock effect on the cconcrete when children kick the side walls.

The insulation easily cuts around the pipe inlets and outlets. This is ordinary styrofoam insulation sheets you can find at any home improvement warehouse store. It comes in 2'x4' and 4'x8' sheets. It is not necessary to insulate the bottom of what color does blue and brown make pond Ч just the vertical walls.

Concerte layer of underlayment will protect the liner from abrasive items pind the soil. Just make sure there are no sharp rocks or roots sticking up! Install the UV clarifiers and aeration system so concrdte they fit inside a rectangular valve box. Connect the outlet pohd the first UV to the inlet of the second UV. Now you can connect the UV return pipe to the outlet of the second UV.

Connect the skimmer's main pump outlet to one side howw the 3-way flow control valve. Connect the pre-filter's outlet to the other side of the 3-way flow control valve.

Connect the outlet of the 3-way valve to the pipe the will be what chemical in alcohol is addictive to the pone pump.

At this point you can either continue working on the equipment plumbing - but we recommend preparing the pond box for underlayment and liner buils you can start filling the pond. It takes quite a while to fill a pond with a garden hose - so we want the pond to be filling while we hook up the remaining equipment.

Grade the bottom of the pond so that the bottom drain is at the deepest point. Grade the soil upward and outward from the drain to all sides of the pond. If you need to add soil to do so Just as important as the grading is the soil compaction. Compact the soil 5X more than you think you need to! Remember - you're going to have thousands of pounds of water pushing down on the bottom of the pond.

You want the soil to remain where you've placed it! Now you're ready to install the underlayment. Cut the underlayment into pieces that fit the bottom, and each of the sides. This way you'll have the least amount of wrinkles under your pond liner.

Cut what are the best green drinks underlayment around the two pond return pipes and the skimmer inlet pipe. Next, install fish safe 45 mil EPDM rubber liner. Fold the corners inward as if gift wrapping a present in reverse. There are many ways to hold water in a koi pond Ч rubber liner, concrete, and polyurea are the most popular.

The liner installation is now complete. When filled with water, the water pressure will flatten out most of the small wrinkles for you. In this case, we are using plastic Trex deck boards. Do not use treated wood here Ч use only materials that are safe for koi and friendly to the human touch. Bjild need to excavate a script how to train your dragon for the plumbing lines from and back to the pond.

How to Build a Koi Pond

This article was co-authored by Scott Johnson. He has over 30 years of experience in the pool and landscape construction industry and specializes in large estate outdoor environment construction projects. This article has been viewed , times. A concrete pond adds beauty and functionality to your landscape. Whether you want a pond purely for aesthetic purposes, or for irrigation and swimming, building a concrete pond is a project that you can do yourself with the right equipment and a lot of sweat!

Make sure to properly excavate the pond, then pour concrete to the right thickness, and reinforce it with wire mesh to create a concrete pond that will last for years. Support wikiHow by unlocking this staff-researched answer. To build a concrete pond, start by outlining the pond with marking paint or rope and clear the area of any rocks or debris.

Once the area is clean, use a shovel or front-end loader to dig out the pond, giving the sides a slope of 45 degrees. Then, find which way the pond naturally slopes and dig a small channel about 2 feet long away from the side, which will allow extra water to flow out.

Before adding the concrete, line the pond with a heavy-gauge polythene sheet. From there, cover the sides with 4 inches of concrete, then press wire mesh into the concrete and cover that with 2 more inches of concrete. Cover everything with plastic sheets and let it cure for 3 days before adding a filtration system. For more help, like how to make your pod suitable for fish to live in, read on. Did this summary help you?

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Download Article Explore this Article parts. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1 of All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Clear the area where your pond will go. Remove any rocks and debris with a wheelbarrow. You should check the construction plans for your house or contact the civil authorities to make sure there are no utility lines in the area where you want your pond.

The ideal spot for a pond is on level land and away from trees or bushes. Make an outline of the shape of the pond with marking paint or a rope. Mark the outline with a spray can or squeeze bottle of marking paint. The size of your pond is completely up to you, just keep in mind that the bigger it is, the more work it will be to excavate and pour the concrete. If you have rocky soil, the excavation can be a little tough. You may need to use a jackhammer or hire a crew to excavate the soil for you.

If you plan to swim, then a pond that is 25Ч30 ft 7. A fish pond, such as a koi pond, should be about 12 ft 3. Dig the pond out with a shovel or a front-end loader to the desired depth.

You will be able to excavate small-scale ponds using a wheelbarrow and a shovel. Hire a tractor driver with a front-end loader to excavate the pond if it is too large for you to excavate by hand. A good size for a pond that you could dig out yourself would be 5 ft 1. Slope the sides at a degree angle. Use a shovel or front-end loader to dig out the sides until they are at approximately a degree angle. This angle will make it easiest to cover the sides in concrete.

Dig a spillway 4Ч6 in 10Ч15 cm below the ponds lowest edge. Find which way the pond naturally slopes. Use a shovel to dig a channel 4Ч6 in 10Ч15 cm deep, 6Ч8 in 15Ч20 cm wide, and at least 2 ft 0.

Place a level around the sides to find the biggest slope if it is not obvious to the eye. Dig the channel towards a garden or plants to use water that drains from your pond to irrigate your property.

You can line the earthen channel with river rocks to add visual appeal and so that you can walk over it. Part 2 of Line the pond with heavy-gauge polythene sheet. Use a plastic liner that is 0. Cover the entire sides and base of the pond with the liner. For example, if your pond is 10 ft 3. The plastic will act as a moisture barrier, as well as provide something for the concrete to grab onto.

Turn on your electric mixer and pour in the correct ratio of concrete to water. Wait until it is thoroughly mixed and there are no dry spots to start pouring it. You can use an online concrete calculator to enter the dimensions of your pond and the thickness of the concrete you want to pour to determine how many bags of concrete you will need to complete the project. The type of electric concrete mixer to use is a small drum on wheels that tilts back and forth on an axis. When you plug it in and turn it on, the drum rotates to mix the concrete together.

Cover the sides and base with 4 in 10 cm of concrete. Start with one side of the pond and work your way around. Pour the mixed concrete onto the sides and base and even it out with a shovel until there is a 4 in 10 cm layer covering all sides.

Make sure that the concrete is not too watery or it will run down the sides of the pond when you pour it on them. If you notice this happening, then reduce the amount of the water in the mix. If your pond is too deep to reach the bottom with a rake or shovel, then carry buckets of concrete down to the bottom.

Start at one end of the pond, and spread the concrete out evenly with a shovel or rake, working backwards, until you reach the other end and have covered the entire bottom. Press chicken wire mesh into the wet concrete. Use 2 in 5. Push the wire mesh into the freshly poured concrete and overlap the wire anywhere that 2 pieces meet. You can get large rolls of galvanised steel chicken wire mesh at a home improvement center. The mesh will reinforce the concrete and help prevent cracking in the future.

Measure the side slopes and the bottom of the pool with a measuring tape to figure out how much mesh you need to purchase to cover them. Cover the wire mesh with another layer of concrete and smooth it with a trowel. Pour or shovel another 2 in 5. Use a hand trowel to smooth it out evenly. Aim to have the concrete completely smoothed out within 2 hours, before it starts to get hard.

You can use a rake or broom to spread out the concrete before you give it a smooth final finish with a trowel. Carry concrete into the pond with buckets and spread it out, working your way from the bottom to the top, if it is too deep to cover the whole sides with a rake or broom. This way you can cover smooth out any footprints as you make your way up towards the sides of the pond.

Cover the pond with plastic sheets and let it cure for 3 days. Spread out the sheets to cover the entire pond and anchor them down with rocks or other heavy objects. Let the concrete dry for 3 days until it is completely cured, and then remove the sheets. Spray on a rubber liner to seal the pond if you are using it for fish.

Use a dark-colored rubber liner, hold the can 6 in 15 cm from the concrete, and spray it on from top to bottom. The liner will seal out the lime in the concrete that is harmful to fish. You can also use a paint-on rubber liner instead of a spray-on liner. Dip a 4Ч6 in 10Ч15 cm flat brush in the paint and work from top to bottom or left to right to coat the concrete. Did you know you can read premium answers for this article?

Unlock premium answers by supporting wikiHow. Scott Johnson. Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 3.

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