Building a Life-Size Nutcracker (that Can Crack Coconuts!)
Aug 30, · How to Build a Life-Size Nutcracker. Step 1. Lay newspaper out on a large, flat area such as a floor or driveway. Place all four flower pots on the newspaper. Step 2. . Nov 17, · Life-sizes hand crafted nutcrackers can run you into the thousands of dollars. I would love to have two life-size nutcrackers on each side of my from door, but felt like I could never afford it. Until now! My new friend and incredible DIY craft goddess, Julianna, has figured out a way for you and I to make life-size nutcrackers for a fraction.
I just had to kick off the new year with a bang… or with a crack really. The latest jackmansized creation is this nutcracker that is actually taller than me. This totals up to being almost segmented rings and 2, pieces of wood in total to construct this creation.
All of the boards are cut down to a more manageable length, sent through the thickness planer to smooth out both sides, and then they are ripped into even 1. The right side is red oak, the center is the fir studs, and the left is some pieces cut down from maple butcher block off-cuts that I'm going to repurpose for my new nutcracker friend. Now that I've cut the boards down into smaller strips, I continue by cutting them into smaller wedges as well I set the miter gauge on my table saw over to 9 degrees since each of the rings on this build is going to be made up of 20 segments total.
Then I just go to town cutting almost 2, different segments. I have a rough sketch that I use to figure out the length of each segment, plus the species of wood I want to use for each found a lost dog what to do. As I cut out the rings, I clamp them temporarily in hose clamps just to keep them all organized.
Then each of these rings moves over to the glue-up station where I apply glue to each segment and install the hose clamps for real this time to pull all of the joints tight while the glue dries. After leaving them overnight, the hose clamps can be removed from the rings To remove the excess glue from the faces and also to bring down the pieces all flush with one another, each of the rings is sent through my humble little drum sander until the faces are perfectly smooth.
Now I need to start stacking these rings together to build up the columns that will form the body, but before that I mark out the center of a few segments on each of the rings. This allows for easy alignment during the glue-up since each layer is offset from the one below by rotating it by half the length of a segment The smaller rings are glued up in sections of about 6 at a time and then all of those can be glued together into one large cylinder by clamping it with some pipe clamps to the bench.
What is child study team larger rings are glued up in sections, but since they max out my lathe with the tool rest in place, these will need to be turned down to size in sections and glued together later.
I need for some of the rings how to stop the death wobble be solid, so I do this by cutting them on the CNC while also cutting a mating circle to fit into the ring. These solid rings are needed at the top of the legs to both give me a place to mount it to the lathe and also give me a way to attach the legs to the body.
And the reason for doing this rather than just using solid disks to begin with is so that from the edge it looks like a segmented ring like the rest of them. And to show the same process, just with a different method, I do the same thing on the lathe to make solid disks for certain body parts.
These are needed at the how to build a life size nutcracker of the hat, the bottom of the head, and the bottom of the body to give places to attach other parts, but also to make the bottom of the head top of the mouth solid. The piece shown here is the head, which is mount on the chuck and then turn the opposite end until it fits the width and thickness of the disk that I cut out.
Not only does this give me the solid disk that I need for the body, but it also gives me something to pinch the tailstock into to hold the piece securely while I turn it round. So that being said, I move in the tailstock and go to town until all of the sharp edges are rounded over.
Once round, I can then establish the dimensions. I pull it off the lathe and mark out the dimensions from my drawings on either side of the piece in this case it's the head. These center justified rulers were way more help during this build then they should have been with all of these round shapes. The marks on either end act as guides to bring either side down to size and then I just connect the dots from there with the round shape of the head. I do the same for the hat except that it's a straight line instead of a curve.
The bottom section of the body is a bit more complicated where the belt is, but for that I just turned it down to a perfect cylinder and used a straight edge along the front to measure in to the depth that gave me the diameter where the belt is.
The top section of the body was the only how to build a life size nutcracker that was a little different. This one did not have a solid disk on either side of it, so mounting it to the lathe was a bit tricky.
The top ring was thicker though to account for the slanted shape of the body, but this gave me a ridge on the inside of this body section where I glued and screwed a block of wood. This block was then used to mount the tailstock to support the piece while I turned it down to size. Now the arms and legs were slightly easier, because I could just turn them as one solid piece given that the tool rest can fit underneath the smaller diameter pieces.
Plus for these I can use my calipers to measure out the diameter along many locations of the cylinder. It's mounted to the lathe with just a screw chuck into one side and then pinch up with the tailstock.
Rinse and repeat x4. Now begins what ended up being the trickiest part of this build, justifying to myself that this was a worthy endeavor afterall Also the trickiest part was fitting the mouth cavity into the top section of the body. So I took my time laying this out, which was easier said then done due to the shape of the pieces. I determine along the top where the mouth should go and then transfer those lines down the side of the body so I can cut out the center section.
And then I just slow and steady cut down that line with a trusty old handsaw. There really wasn't a better tool for the job, this allowed me to cut a straight line down but also to span the gap from one side to the other to make sure I was cutting in a straight line that way.
I do how to condition leather furniture naturally same for both sides of the cut down to my bottom line and then cut the bottom horizontal how to address your wedding invitation envelopes with an oscillating saw so I can get a nice square cut.
The center piece is removed, which also removes the temporary block of wood that I glued in order to mount it to the lathe, it's almost like I how to pick ripe avocados what I'm doing!
The plywood template is cut down to size on the bandsaw and sanded down to the line on the disk sander and then traced out on the piece of oak that will form the bottom of the mouth cavity.
This piece is exactly the thickness from the top of the bottom ring to the top of the horizontal cut that I made on the body section. After cutting this down to size on the bandsaw, it can then be fit in place, giving me a perfectly flat surface at the bottom of the mouth. Following the dry fit, I can then pop it out, apply glue, and then clamp it in place while the glue dries. That bottom section was tricky to get a dead-nuts fit, but the side sections where even trickier.
I do the same dry fit and refine the cut until both sides fit in perfectly, then I can apply glue and install them in place. To clamp them while the glue dries, I used some scrap pieces of wood cut down to length to match the exact width of the cavity.
These then pinched out to hold both of the pieces of plywood in place. Now the body sections can start to be attached together! My little monster is starting to take shape now. The top and bottom sections of the maine is the what state are glued and clamped together and I also do the same with the hat and head.
I start by making a cardboard template so that I can work out the exact shape before I make it out of wood. What I mean to say, is that this allows for me to screw it up a couple of times before I start cutting into the real piece.
The original dimensions are established based on my drawings and then I scribe the back of the handle so that it nests against the body. Once I'm happy with the shape of the cardboard template, I then trace out that shape onto my wood pieces and cut them down to shape on the bandsaw. There are 2 pieces, one is the handle and one is the jaw, and each is made from laminations of the same maple butcher block off-cuts.
Now I need to ensure that the connection between the handle and the jaw is super robust, because there is going to be a lot of torque applied to this joint with the things that I want to crush I predrill some holes and then apply glue and screw the two pieces together using 8" long ledger screws that are usually used to hold decks on houses I think it should be good enough!
These screws are countersunk into the surface and then the holes are plugged by gluing in a dowel and cutting it flush with the surface.
This way, the fasteners are hidden in the final piece. Then the most nerve wracking part of the build, I drill a how to build a life size nutcracker straight through the entire what does proverbs 19 21 mean to establish the location that the jaw will rotate around. In this hole there will be a threaded rod that will hold the jaw in place and let it rotate, but will also hold the how to write reports in english on, more on that later.
This is simply held in place with some 2-part epoxy. While that cures, I work through some of the finer details. The ends of the arms had a hole in them that was used to mount it to the lathe, so I drill these holes out to fit the same down and then glue that in, cut it flush and sand it down to finish off that surface of the arm. I also apply some gold paint into any of the detailed lines like you can see here near the top of the arm.
Now to attach all of the body parts together, I want to use threaded rod, so that all of the pieces are screwed together, that way this guy is slightly disassemblable. For the arms, I drill out and tap a hole where the threaded rod that passes through the body will be threaded in.
I do something similar to attach the legs where I tap a hole in the bottom of the body for each leg. Then at the top of the leg, I use epoxy to hold a small length of threaded rod in place permanently. Now that I'm confident that the jaw mechanism is going to work, I go ahead and attach the head to the rest of the body with glue and clamp it in place while it dries.
I want to get some boots onto the bottom of these legs! I cut a scrap piece of wood until it just barely squeezes into the heel of the my nutcracker boots.
This then legs me trace a line on the bottom of each of the legs which establishes the size of the foot. I start by using my TurboPlane to carve down that rough shape, tapering from the top how to simplify my life the calf down to the line that I just traced on the bottom of the "foot". Then to further establish the shape of the bottom of the leg, I simply pull out the model wood leg that any half decent woodshop has, and use that to draw a more refined shape onto the leg.
These lines shown here give me guidelines while I power carve the more curvy shape into the bottom of the leg and keep refining it until the boots finally fit onto the feet. Then the last bit, this nutcracker needs something to keep him standing! I use some more of the butcher block offcuts and glue 3 layers of them together. At this point, I think my obsession with wood glue is fully public I say embrace who you are, don't fight it!!
Anyway, the big slab is glued together and clamped until it is dry, then I cut a massive chamfer into the upper perimeter of the base by cutting at a 45 degree angle on my table saw.
To hold his legs, and his whole body really, to the base, I drill a hole straight through the base and through his boots, into the bottom of his leg. Drilling through the base and the rubber of the boot was easy although a bit painful but drilling through the steel shank that is in the sole of the boot is another story I did that off camera though so you didn't have to see the smoke coming out of my ears, or the smoke coming out of the boots.
With this hole established, I drill a slightly smaller hole the rest of the way into the bottom of the leg. This hole can then be tapped.
This is what will be used to keep the nutcracker standing up straight with a giant bolt threaded through the base and the boot, directly into each of his legs. Now there's just one last step to make my friend really look like a nutcracker, he needs a face.
So I cut out his schnoz from another piece of how to repair cracked bumper cover fir that became the face, which I temporarily clamp in place to trace out where I'll need to recess it to attach it to his face.
This recess is cut out using my oscillating saw, and then the material is removed with a chisel.
How To Make A DIY Life-size Christmas Nutcracker
Dec 31, · No better way to end the year than a ~ piece, ' tall, lb CocoNutcracker!Share & Subscribe? datingescortusa.com! \\\\\ SUPPORT MY SPO. Nov 28, · For the holiday season, we decided to create a life sized Nutcracker, with materials from a local thrift store, Dollar Tree, general craft stores and Lowes!M. Building a Life-Size Nutcracker (that Can Crack Coconuts!): I just had to kick off the new year with a bang or with a crack really. The latest #jackmansized creation is this nutcracker that is actually taller than me. He’s built almost entirely out of wood and almost entirely out of reclaimed materials. The.
Building a life-size Nutcracker may not be the least expensive holiday decoration you make for next Christmas, but it could well be the most fun and unique.
The project is not particularly difficult and makes for a great parent-child or family undertaking. For best results, start early and spread the project over a number days or weeks. Purposely take your time enjoying the construction and decoration of your toy soldier. You can use almost all the ideas from this Instructable and scale them down to build smaller, less costly, Nutcrackers.
The pvc pipe and flower pots used for this project come in a wide varied of shapes and sizes. So you can build your nutcracker almost any dimensions you want. Also note, this Nutcracker is easily dis-assembled for off-season storage by removing just a few screws. It is the decoration and detail of the uniform that will make your soldier stand out. Buttons, fringe, accessories, medals, insignias, adornments, plumes, hair, makeup, and special costumes are all just a matter of using your imagination.
There are no rules when it comes to creating Nutcrackers and Toy Soldiers. So let your ideas run wild. Basic materials and costs for one Nutcracker. Begin making the legs by cutting the crimped end off of the 5' length of 6" diameter vent pipe. Mark with a Sharpie and cut with an angle grinder, skill saw with metal blade , jig saw or hack saw. Photo 1 Mark the remaining length of pipe at the midway point. This should be about 29" from the end.
Make a series of marks around the pipe and then use masking tape to create a nice even line connecting the marks. Note that I have marked which side of the tape is the correct side to cut. Photo 2 Then cut the vent pipe into two equal lengths. Photo 3 To create the feet, cut 4 section 6" x 10" from a piece of 2x8 lumber. Make the toe about 2" wide and then angled back toward the heel at a 15 degree angle.
Photo 4 These photos are of the boots on my second soldier. On my first soldier I made the boots squared off at the toe no taper back toward he heel Photo 5. Mark and cut a 6" diameter half circle at the heel end of each boot. If you are using a jig saw or hand coping saw to cut these half circles, you will want to make the cuts before screwing the two pieces together, If you are using a band saw or larger scroll saw, it is best to screw the pieces together before cutting.
Round off the toe of each boot with coarse grit sandpaper. Photo 7 Mark the metal legs for three screw holes. You want the metal seam to be either on the in-seam of the leg like trousers our on the opposite outer side - which can later be covered with a stripe on the pant leg. Just make certain your seam is not pointing directly forward or backward. You want to hide it as much as possible. Photo 8 Place the legs back in the boots and then use a Sharpie to reach down into each leg and mark the holes on the inner circle of each wooden boot.
When you remove the metal legs you should be able to see the marks shown by the arrows in the photo. Photo 9. Use these marks to drill small pilot holes for wood screws. Once again place the metal legs into the boot circles. Using a stubby phillips head screw driver, reach down into each leg and install three screws securing the metal leg to the boot.
Photo 10 Cut two lengths of 2x6 equal to the length of your legs my legs were 29" tall. Photo 11 Insert the 2x6 supports into the legs so they face directly forward. Photo 12 Screw the 2x6 supports in place through the bottom of the base board. Cut a length of 2x6 to span across the tops of the two supports. Photo 1 The taper should allow the top of the cross piece to fit within the lower torso planting pot.
Photo 2 Screw the cross piece to the tops of the 2x6 leg supports. Photo 3 To provide support for the torso front to back, a second length of 2x6 is mounted on top of the cross piece.
Photo 4 The lower torso planting pot is then slipped over the supports, leveled in every direction, and screwed into place. Photo 5 Make sure to position all screws so they are accessible later when you want to take apart your Nutcracker for storage.
Position the upper torso planting pot on top of the lower pot and then drill and screw in place. Photo 6. Photo 7 Make a similar line up the back side of the torso. Cut a length of 1x8 10" long. Mark the center 5 inches on the front and back. Position the 1x8 in the opening at the top of the torso and using clamps, draw the plastic planter pot tight to the 1x8 using the centering marks on the torso and board to keep the board evenly spaced within the opening.
Photo 8. Screw the pot to the board to hold it in place. Note that some planting pots may not be flexible enough to bend in this way. As an alternative, cut the 1x8 wider so it fits the full opening and screw it in place from each end.
Add 9" to this measurement and cut a piece of 1x6 stock to that length. Using the PVC end caps for your arms, draw curves on each end of this shoulder board. Photo 1. Cut and sand the ends of the shoulder board smooth. Photo 2. Position the shoulder board on the top of the torso and screw it in place. Photo 3. The head can then be temporarily snapped into the drip dish. Photo 4. Four inch PVC pipe can also be used but it is more expensive.
The photo shows the 10 foot length of drain pipe, PVC elbow, end caps, the neoprene gloves used for hands and the metal vent pipe used for legs. Photo 1 I made one arm straight and the other bent, to hold a sword. The straight arm is cut 19" long. The upper section of the bent arm is 9" and the lower section is 8" connected with a 90 degree elbow. Photo 2 and 3. PVC end caps are used at the top of each arm.
Photo 4 Using the cap as a guide, drill small pilot holes in the pipe. Photo 5 Screw the end cap in place on the pipe and mark see arrow so that the arm can be dismantled and re-attached in the same position. Photo 6 Detach the end caps from the arms and bolt them to the shoulder piece. The arms can then be attached to the torso. Photo 8 Note that the end caps, elbows and tubing can be assembled using PVC glue but I would advise using screws instead. This allows you to adjust for errors later on or to take the nutcracker apart for storage.
The hands are made by stuffing long cuff neoprene gloves with paper toweling. The paper towels are folded in half and then wrapped tightly around lengths of heavy wire or coat hanger sections. Photo 1 The towel wraps are then stuffed into the fingers of each glove and the wires are then bent into the shape you need.
Photo 2 In some cases, such as the sword I want one of my nutcrackers to hold, additional support may be needed to keep the hand in position. I used a small metal rod taped to the underside of the glove and hidden from view to provide the necessary support. Photo 3 Note also in this photo that the top open end of the glove is stuffed with old kitchen towels to make them much thicker and to provide a solid friction fit inside the drain pipe.
The hands can be slipped out of the arms for off-season storage. The hat is made from another planting pot, this one 14" tall with a 15" diameter opening at the top.
To create the bill for the hat, remove the drip saucer from the bottom of the pot. Photo 2 Shape the outer edge of the bill as you see fit. I made my bill to extend 4" out from the hat and then used a paint can to draw the curved outer corners of the bill. Fit the bill to the hat and mark the location of four evenly spaced screws. Photo 4 Drill holes through the hat. Photo 5 Screw the bill to the hat.
Photo 6 The hat can be test fit onto the head. Photo 7. You might notice that the top of the hat is still wide open. To close it off you can use foam insulation board.
Use the hat pot to draw a circle onto the foam board. Photo 8 Cut out the circle using the inner line and then sand down the edge at an angle until the foam fits snugly inside the top of the hat.